On a Friday evening near the tiny French fishing village of Gruissan, a gypsy band roars into song, strumming “Les Champs-Élysées.” The crowd joins in clapping, hopping up on wooden picnic tables to sing along as steaming bowls of mussels and salt-encrusted sea bass emerge from the kitchen. The scene at oyster shack La Cambuse du Saunier, which sits along the Les Sels de Gruissan salt marsh, may seem reminiscent of something you’d see at dive bars in Key West. That is, until you take a sip of the local rosé while admiring a salt pond that’s the very same shade of pink as the wine you’re drinking.

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